How many arguments does this simplest of desserts create? Fruit or no fruit? Jelly or no jelly? What’s your take on the most popular Christmas dessert … The Trifle!

I grew up in the north of England and our Christmas table always included a traditional Olde English Trifle for dessert; there was pudding as well of course, with sixpences wrapped in foil, but the main event was the trifle. It was sweet and smooth and ever so slightly tipsy from the sherry that my mother poured over the cake. The trifle was usually made the previous day so the sherry could soak into the cake and fruit, and the custard (which was also home-made) could set. The cream and decoration, or fruit topping, was added immediately before serving. And there was never, ever, any jelly in it!

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